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Old 2019-01-06, 01:11 AM   #2251
lobbybopster
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Bearing Wear

[QUOTE=jaco_flans;1702245]Well, a regular hub only need bearings repacked/replaced every few years. A Schlumpf hub has a total of 9 bearings inside. Mine had bearings replaced twice in 4 years of riding. The disk brakes make the bearings wear quicker as well (even on the new generation).

interesting comment, and that is why I put the disc on the hub of my schlumf so the brake torque does not transmit through the gears.

see my adapter on page 101 of this post.

Last edited by lobbybopster; 2019-01-06 at 01:14 AM. Reason: add info
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Old 2019-01-14, 12:59 AM   #2252
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new style Schlumpf hub

Hello again, while rooting around in the garage I found this disc adapter for a 48 spoke rim, 36 hole schlumpf hub. It could probably be re-drilled for a different rim spoke pattern. That means fare game to anyone with abilities like Jaco-Flans or Saskatchewanian because this had to be remade due to mistakes. Oh the disc measures 8" across, and it was made for the new generation hubs.
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Last edited by lobbybopster; 2019-01-14 at 01:02 AM. Reason: added info.
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Old 2019-03-05, 12:42 PM   #2253
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Bearing material?

Quick question: What flavor metal is the knurled bearing made from? Is it aluminum or something else? I have the not-newest generation without the bearing stop. My bearing is slipping in the bearing holder in high gear and I'm hoping my welding friend can just weld the bearing to the aluminum bearing cap. I don't know diddly about welding, so feel free to tell me what a bad idea this is.

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Old 2019-03-05, 03:50 PM   #2254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnderTheLake View Post
Quick question: What flavor metal is the knurled bearing made from? Is it aluminum or something else? I have the not-newest generation without the bearing stop. My bearing is slipping in the bearing holder in high gear and I'm hoping my welding friend can just weld the bearing to the aluminum bearing cap. I don't know diddly about welding, so feel free to tell me what a bad idea this is.

UtL
Likely a bad idea and not possible. The knurled bearing is steel and frame is likely aluminum and they can not be welded together. Here is a past thread with some ideas and what looks like a positive fix in the last post.
http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/sho...t=93281&page=3
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Old 2019-03-06, 04:42 AM   #2255
UnderTheLake
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Thank you, sir. I suspected it wouldn't be so easy. Perhaps I could steal a steel bearing cap from a nimbus frame? I think all the bolt holes and bearings would line up.... I'll have to stare at it for awhile.
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Old 2019-03-06, 08:17 AM   #2256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnderTheLake View Post
Thank you, sir. I suspected it wouldn't be so easy. Perhaps I could steal a steel bearing cap from a nimbus frame? I think all the bolt holes and bearings would line up.... I'll have to stare at it for awhile.
Don't do it. Have you tried less permanent and more reversible methods like:

Loctite bearing retainer

A very slim shim around the bearing. (I'd try tinfoil, as it's just to get the clearances a bit tighter.)

Filing of a bit of the bearing holder where it clamps together.

If all that doesn't work, find a friend with a mill, and have him do the same that flansberrium did: https://www.facebook.com/flansberriu...73381552895176

All these methods don't destroy your hub, welding might.
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Old 2019-03-13, 04:04 PM   #2257
Eric aus Chemnitz
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Welding?, on a bearing, on only one side? no no no, don't do it! Ever heared of welding deformation? You may destroy your schlumpf with this ...
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Old 2019-03-16, 12:53 AM   #2258
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Agree with everyone. Dont weld on it. If you really want it to not slip, I'd be willing to machine a stop like I did on mine. It works just like the latest generations and it is impossible to slip. You can still replace bearings when needed and swap frames over.

Send me an email if you're interested.

flansberrium@gmail.com

Here's the exact modification.
http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/sho...6&postcount=38
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Old 2019-03-17, 06:55 PM   #2259
elpuebloUNIdo
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I recently installed my Schlumpf hub into a 26" wheel. It was previously in a 19" trials wheel. I went on a 12 mile on/off road ride yesterday. Everything worked perfectly (I had one accidental downshift, but I am guessing my foot hit the button on that one). Which is good, because I had a lot of problems my first time around with the 19" Guni.

First of all, I was ill-informed about the use of a crank stop. My hub is an M800 series, and the specification allows spacers to press hard against the hub. I had some problems before figuring this out.

Second, I was performing small hops on the 19" Guni. Bad idea. I weight more than 200 lbs. This probably caused the interface to get loose. On my ride yesterday, I rolled everything and avoided any corrective hops during mounting.

Third, I wasn't using LocTite, because I didn't see the need for it. I thought that tightening the crap out of the crank bolts would be sufficient. But they still kept getting loose. So, duh, I learned my lesson there. On my 12 mile trip yesterday, everything remained tight.

Fourth, I was using the special 2nM driver from Schlumpf to lock in the shift buttons. The frequent use of that resulted in stripping out one of the tiny plugs (and me damaging the shifting rod trying to remove the shift button). I think I can get away with using less force, stopping the tightening of those tiny plugs before the tool "clicks".

I think the internals of the Schlumpf hub are great, but the interface is still not bullet-proof. And I am concerned about the hardness of the crank bolts and the shift-button plugs. There's a limit on how much I can tighten the crank bolts before they deform. I can use much more torque on the crank bolts on my conventional, ISIS unicycles, on the other hand.
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Old 2019-03-20, 12:43 PM   #2260
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I've never used loctite on my Schlumpf, had it like 2 years now and haven't bothered to tighten it since the first couple of weeks of me buying it, and nothing seems to be slopping. Tightening the crap out of it CAN work, assuming you've got a 4ft long iron bar and a bit of patience

Hopping on it shouldn't affect it too much either, they're built to really take a beating. What sort of torque are you putting on the cranks themselves when you tighten the bolt on?
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Old 2019-03-20, 01:46 PM   #2261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piece Maker View Post
What sort of torque are you putting on the cranks themselves when you tighten the bolt on?
Not as much as I want to. The bolts that came with the hub could only take so much torque before they started to deform on the inside. And I was not using a long wrench, either, just a small hex tool smaller than the size of my hand.

I spoke to Silva Cycles, the ones who built the wheel of my original Guni (when the hub was in a 19"). They also had recent problems with deformation of the bolts during tightening. I think this problem may be specific to the most recent 8XX series of hubs. Silva suggested that maybe the bolts were not hardened adequately.

I checked the tightness of the bolts a couple days after going on my most recent ride. The right bolt was completely tight, but the left bolt had significantly come loose. The crank was still pressed on the interface correctly, so the problem was not apparent until I removed the shift button.

My recollection, from the many times I've re-tightened the interface, is that one side tended to get loose more than the other, and maybe it was the left. I wonder if this is due to the the rotation of the left crank in the direction that would loosen the the left crank bolt. I never had a similar problem on my other, ISIS unicycles, however.

This has been a major concern and frustration. It makes me somewhat afraid to ride on the thing. Thanks for your help figuring out the problem, Piece Maker.
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Old 2019-03-20, 02:14 PM   #2262
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Schlumpf does now sell pre-tightening bolts that are a little bit more substantial then the bolts that are designed to have the shifter pass through them - it may be worth investing in one to get the cranks on and up to torque before just then nipping up the hollow ones for riding.

https://www.unicycle.uk.com/schlumpf...ning-bolt.html

I've also had issues with the standard ones deforming more than one might like when tightening up. A good set of allen keys helps but doesn't completely remove the problem.
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Old 2019-03-21, 04:00 AM   #2263
elpuebloUNIdo
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Originally Posted by mowcius View Post
Schlumpf does now sell pre-tightening bolts that are a little bit more substantial
If I understand correctly, Schlumpf claims that the pre-tightening bolts are no longer necessary on his latest batch of hubs.
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Old 2019-03-21, 12:08 PM   #2264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mowcius View Post
Schlumpf does now sell pre-tightening bolts that are a little bit more substantial then the bolts that are designed to have the shifter pass through them - it may be worth investing in one to get the cranks on and up to torque before just then nipping up the hollow ones for riding.

https://www.unicycle.uk.com/schlumpf...ning-bolt.html

I've also had issues with the standard ones deforming more than one might like when tightening up. A good set of allen keys helps but doesn't completely remove the problem.
I just did mine with a regular ISIS bolt - pushed the shifting rod in first and the bolt itself didn't touch it. I cranked it down as hard as humanly possible with a giant iron bar, then replaced it with the hollow crank bolt.

I'll probably get the proper Schlumpf tightening bolt at some point though, I plan to re-do my wheel soon and want to do it right

It really sounds like elpuebloUNIdo needs to get the tightening bolt though!
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Old 2019-03-21, 09:38 PM   #2265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elpuebloUNIdo View Post
If I understand correctly, Schlumpf claims that the pre-tightening bolts are no longer necessary on his latest batch of hubs.
Is that because the new generation hubs have standard bolts made out of a tougher steel?
I can't see how anything could have changed otherwise.

I presume the issue is primarily that the bolts weren't/aren't tough enough and/or the hex isn't really deep enough to spread the force from the allen key?
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