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Old 2019-08-13, 06:26 PM   #31
bouin-bouin
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Q-Axle hubs are creaky and their bearings are very weak
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Old 2019-08-13, 07:59 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bouin-bouin View Post
Q-Axle hubs are creaky and their bearings are very weak
only with wrong assembly
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Old 2019-08-13, 10:15 PM   #33
bouin-bouin
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Originally Posted by Langsamraser View Post
only with wrong assembly
I don’t agree
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Old 2019-08-14, 01:27 AM   #34
leo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aali View Post
Qu-ax should develop a 125 mm wide Q-axle hub with 32 holes so that I could replace my ISIS-based Hatchet wheel with a Q-Axle alternative.
125mm, yes +1 here.
And a 36h hub without disk brake...
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Old 2019-08-14, 02:48 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leo View Post
And a 36h hub without disk brake...
like this?

Regarding creaky q-axle hubs: I've seen them creak a bit with people that I think of as mechanically competent too. If the teeth on the hub or crank end up slightly small, there can be movement, and where there is movement, there might be some creaking. As far as I can tell, cleaning and (re-)greasing generally seems to help in almost all cases, with some riders (or sets of cranks, I'm not sure), needing to do it more often then others. What I don't like about Q-Axle is that you can't rotate the crank on the splines, which I like to do to rotate the rim. I like to think that rotating the point where you land jumps on might stop rims becoming oval shaped.

I think the short summary is: if splines have to be able to be installed by a consumer with basic hand tools, you'll can't choose a fit that guarantees being absolutely creak free 100% of the time. If this was an industrial application, you'd choose a good tight fit and install the cranks with a press and heat. Most people don't have a press that fit's a unicycle in it at home.. Isis tries to solve that with a conus, q-axle/hollowtech with clamping, which I think is equally valid.

With both Q-Axle and ISIS I haven't seen:
  • Catastrophic failures (of hub interfaces, some cranks still break at different points)
  • Either of them having really large scale issues. Yes, some people appear to have some issues with ISIS cranks, and some do with Q-Axle, but in both cases, it appears to be less than 1% to me.
Which I think is pretty good to be honest, and I wouldn't shy away from either myself.
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Old 2019-08-14, 07:36 AM   #36
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I think the issue on Q-axle is not the connection of crank to axle. This has been proven to work on thousands of bike connections as well.

To my understanding it is the hub itself. As it is a 2 piece design (alu hub body, steel axle) it needs to be pressed together. Those more than one piece design hubs did creak on older ISIS hubs as well. As a result Nimbus and KH have changed to one piece steel ISIS hubs. Those hubs do not creak anymore.
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Old 2019-08-14, 11:13 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by finnspin View Post
like this?
Yes! And like that.

Nice. That just entered high on my wishlist.
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Old 2019-08-14, 10:04 PM   #38
Alice Arctan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finnspin View Post
I like to think that rotating the point where you land jumps on might stop rims becoming oval shaped.
I've been wondering if it would make sense to build wheels stronger in that orientation.
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Old 2019-08-15, 02:07 AM   #39
johnfoss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finnspin View Post
If the teeth on the hub or crank end up slightly small, there can be movement, and where there is movement, there might be some creaking. As far as I can tell, cleaning and (re-)greasing generally seems to help in almost all cases, with some riders (or sets of cranks, I'm not sure), needing to do it more often then others.
Zero experience with Q-Axle interface, but I rode a Profile setup from 2003-2016. It pretty much always creaked. Profile used what I believe was a 45-tooth spline, which means lots of small teeth.

After being reassembled, or maintenance/re-greased, it would be quiet for a while, which would be nice for 2-3 ride, but that would be it. Going up a hill (or down), you could always hear me coming. On the flats it would be a lot quieter because of less force being applied. Anyway, that may be similar to what some Q-Axle riders have experienced. Follow the advice above if yours creaks.

In any case, same hub and no failed cranks (I used different sizes) for 13 years with no breakage. Not even close. My old Wilder was a great Muni, cutting edge when it was new, but no ability to add a brake without major surgery, so I finally upgraded...
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