Disc brake compatibility with the new KH cranks

[UniRock]

When I unboxed my 2012 KH 36er, in the bottom of the box was a small black plastic brake brace screw with a brake hose connector on it. I screwed it into the brake brace hole and attached my hose to the clip. Very clean actually. The odd thing is, it wasn't in any of the parts bags but in the bottom of the box. Mine came from UDC in the US. Maybe give them a call and see it they have them or check your box if you still have it.

[uniShark]

@ Performance bike. Particularly if you get something else and get the $25 off.

[uniShark]

Re-read the thread, and also did better at pricepoint than at performance. Also, I was having trouble finding IS adaptors at Performace - they're probably there somewhere, but I couldn't find them.

Pricepoint also sells the components separately, which let me go with 180, which I'm inclined to prefer for my 29er (not that I really have any clue what the difference, if any, will be vs 160, other than I think the size will look better for my wheel, and more is better, right? ).

MT2 + IS adaptor + 180 rotor (including bolts) for $115 ($127 shipped).

Question: Do the MT-2's always come with the olive, or do I need to start looking for one?

[UniRock]

Originally Posted by uniShark

Re-read the thread, and also did better at pricepoint than at performance. Also, I was having trouble finding IS adaptors at Performace - they're probably there somewhere, but I couldn't find them.

Pricepoint also sells the components separately, which let me go with 180, which I'm inclined to prefer for my 29er (not that I really have any clue what the difference, if any, will be vs 160, other than I think the size will look better for my wheel, and more is better, right? ).

MT2 + IS adaptor + 180 rotor (including bolts) for $115 ($127 shipped).

Question: Do the MT-2's always come with the olive, or do I need to start looking for one?

Not sure if they always do, but I ordered my MT2 from Pricepoint and mine did come with the olive. Hope that helps.

[Nurse Ben]

Question: Do the MT-2's always come with the olive, or do I need to start looking for one?

Not always, my set did not come with olives or the nipples, so I bought a couple from my LBS and I "reused" the nipples from the original lines.

Reusing the nipples requires some fine work with a sharp steel blade that can just as easilly damage your nipples which are a soft brass, sooooo make sure you get a nipple and an olive

Great brakes, love my MT's, 180mm for a 29er, 200mm for a 36er, might even upgrade to a 200mm on my 29er one of these days...

[uniShark]

Originally Posted by UniRock

Not sure if they always do, but I ordered my MT2 from Pricepoint and mine did come with the olive. Hope that helps.

Yeah, that's helpful - I'll wait to see what shows up before I go buy another olive.

[uniShark]

Originally Posted by Nurse Ben

Not always, my set did not come with olives or the nipples, so I bought a couple from my LBS and I "reused" the nipples from the original lines.

Reusing the nipples requires some fine work with a sharp steel blade that can just as easilly damage your nipples which are a soft brass, sooooo make sure you get a nipple and an olive

Great brakes, love my MT's, 180mm for a 29er, 200mm for a 36er, might even upgrade to a 200mm on my 29er one of these days...

I also enjoy delicate work with sharp stuff that might destroy the parts you're working on. . .

[uniShark]

Originally Posted by UniRock

Not sure if they always do, but I ordered my MT2 from Pricepoint and mine did come with the olive. Hope that helps.

My MT2 arrived from Pricepoint, also has the olive and nipple in the box, packaged in a baggie with bolts. Looks like standard parts to me, there are also instructions for shortening the hose, so it looks like Magura expects most people will be doing so and includes the parts.

[knoxuni]

I am glad you got the stuff. when you have to get a olive and the nipple separate it usually cost more to ship than the item.

[Nurse Ben]

Watch the on line video for line shortening, then gather your supplies...

You will need:

Sharp scissors or a brake line cutter
Tape measure
Permanent marker for marking the line length
Some electical tape (to support the cut line while you work)
A wrench to remove and install the threaded fitting, 8 or 10mm

Get the brake mounted in it's entirety, estimate line length needed, add enough for a single wrap just in case you ever need more length. Mark the brake line before cutting.

First you will cut the line with a sharp pair of scissors a couple inches from the brake lever, keeping the line elevated by taping it your seat, then unscrew the brake line fitting and trash the short piece of line and used nipple/olive.

Now you are going to make your final line cut, keeping the line elevated, snip the extra off, slip on rubber sleeve, the threaded fitting, the olive, and then insert the nipple. Make sure the nipple is pressed firmly into the brake line.

Screw the threaded fitting into the lever while keeping pressure on the hose. The olive will become pressed onto the nipple as the fitting is threaded into the lever. Tighten firmly, but don't overtighten or the lever will crack.

Adjust the lever position and go riding

[uniShark]

Thanks Ben, cranks should arrive tomorrow, so that's my project for after work.

[Dartmech]

Ok so I put the d-brake on while waiting for my brakes (thanks nurse ben) and cranks to come in.
Frustratingly things did not workout so smoothly when all parts arrived.
First. D-brake mount is meant for the left side while cranks are for right hand disc mount.
Second- the mounts used to secure the rotor had heads that were rubbing the D-brake mount.
This problem cured itself as they were not rubbing enough to stop rotation so the clearance was created after rotating the wheel/ pulling the crank arm back on/off a few times.
I heard from everyone, including the kind folks at UCD that the mount needed to be flipped around to the right side with the caliper now on the front.
However, this was not the case. There was no way to mount the caliper to the front of the disc (text on the mount facing out) so I had to flip the mount to re-position the caliper on the right rear.
After some washer/spacer testing everything looks super and I can't wait to get her dirty!
Thanks for everyone's help!

[muni ben]

Thanks for documenting your disc brake installation! Relly helpful for me, since I consider doing the same. Which disc brake are you using?

[vookash]

It looks like caliper is upside down.
Has anyone tried KH Spirits with Moutainuni UCM?

[Nurse Ben]

It looks like caliper is upside down.

No, it's correct, bleed nipple pointing up. The D Brake tends to place the line at an angle away from the frame, so an adjustable line is a nice benefit. Magura MT2 is adjustable.

So the D Brake was rubbing on the cranks, not the frame. That's interesting, I thought UDC had worked that out...but I'm glad it worked for you. It's not a bad thing to run the D Brake "backwards", just so long as the caliper mount bolts aren't hitting the spokes.

Maybe UDC needs to know about this issue so they can "double" recess the caliper mounts on the D BRake to allow mounting from either side...