Foss 36 tube question

[johnfoss]

My Stealth rim with holes (actually it's Bronson's) is the same as the one pictured above. Bronson said you need "several layers of rim tape" for it to work, which it does on that wheel with no leakage. Bulging is similar to the photo above, if not less.

So I guess the question is whether too much rim tape negates the value of having the holes? I also like the way the holes look, and am planning to get one of those rims for when I rebuild my wheel with my new hub.

[GizmoDuck]

Originally Posted by johnfoss

So I guess the question is whether too much rim tape negates the value of having the holes? I also like the way the holes look, and am planning to get one of those rims for when I rebuild my wheel with my new hub.

I just wonder why people drill holes right through the inner rim in the first place.

Wouldn't' it make sense to drill bigger/more holes on the outer rim so you keep the inner one tubeproof? Or if you have to drill holes on the inner rim- to drill lots of really really small holes so that the tube doesn't have a big hole to poke out of?

[Dirtsurfer]

A problem I encountered when riding off road with a drilled rim/tubeless, water from puddles would fill up the rim making it heavier. Kind of defeats the purpose of the weight savings.

[unipilot69]

Originally Posted by GizmoDuck

What do you guys mean by a 'drilled' 36" rim? Is that a Stealth rim you've custom drilled, or is there a special drilled rim I don't know about?

I have a Stealth Pro rim, but will probably upgrade to a Stealth II rim because tyres are just about impossible to remove from the original stealth rims.

I got the drilled Stealth (Impulse) last year from UDC USA. It was the only one in stock. I got it about a year ago. It was in the order of parts I got for building a geared 36er.
My Schlumpf just returned after a 9 month stay at the SSHS(Swiss Schlumpf Health Spa). Since puting everything back together, I have had a rough time with tubes. I have destroyed the original 36er tube and three 29er tubes. I am only using the green rim tape that I got from UDC. The tubes do fine up to about 40 psi. After words it only takes a few hours from a fully inflated tire to a popped one. Every time I have a tube failure I take the tire off of the rim and do a thorough inspection. I never find anything.
I have a non drilled Stealth I rim on my Nightrider Pro with a 29er tube and it has 65 psi on it. It has been that way for 8 months now with no problems.

Originally Posted by johnfoss

My Stealth rim with holes (actually it's Bronson's) is the same as the one pictured above. Bronson said you need "several layers of rim tape" for it to work, which it does on that wheel with no leakage. Bulging is similar to the photo above, if not less.

So I guess the question is whether too much rim tape negates the value of having the holes? I also like the way the holes look, and am planning to get one of those rims for when I rebuild my wheel with my new hub.

It looks like I might have to put more rim tape on it or go tubeless.

[uniShark]

Originally Posted by corbin

If drill the rim, be sure to use a full bottle of green slime to protect against flats.



corbin
(LOL>>)

Originally Posted by scotthue

What is this mysterious green slime? And do I put it inside the tube to fill leaks, or around the drilled holes to lube them up and make them less sharp?

Originally Posted by uniaddict

I find stans tubeless sealant works better than slime; plus you need less stans, so less weight. If I have a finicky tube that gets flats often I put a few ounces of stans in and the flats stop.

I can't decide what's funniest - Corbin's joke or people taking his comment seriously. The slime will weigh a whole lot more than the shavings savings.