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Old 2011-05-15, 04:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knoxuni View Post
for a true trials unicycle i think you need more clearence
Not really, more clearance = more chance of hitting your knees on the frame. If you're going to ride off-road then yes, clearance is good to allow for mud on your tyre.
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Old 2011-05-15, 06:27 PM   #17
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Were i live I like having a little bit more mud clearance than the deval frames have but when it us dry it is fine
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Old 2011-05-16, 07:36 PM   #18
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I got my K1 White Widow also a bit over a year ago now (feb before last) and I haven't had any issues with it.

The clearance is minimal under the frame but not close enough to be rubbing (got about 5mm maybe slightly more)

Only thing I don't like is having a cromo frame - I have been touching up parts so they don't rust (not too fussed about the scratches though) and becuase it's chromo and therefore thin walled, I have recently dented it hitting something (probably a metal tube at the top of a skatepark ramp).

Mine was £210 from firetoys and I think the orange bud was about £250 at the time but I didn't want a solid rim and I didn't have enough money for it either
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Old 2011-05-16, 11:26 PM   #19
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my frame is coved and it is holding up fine
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Old 2011-05-17, 06:28 AM   #20
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Oh I'm expecting it to hold up fine but I do have a KH longneck frame waiting to be used once I get it re-welded.
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Old 2011-05-17, 01:34 PM   #21
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how is the koxx frame compared to KH
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Old 2011-05-17, 03:49 PM   #22
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It's aluminium so won't rust, I think it's lighter than the devel (although the longneck aspect might make it heavier) and it's thicker wall so can't get dented anywhere near so easily, bearing holders are also machined rather than stamped, crown is flat (but so are some of the other koxx frames) and it's a KH...

I'd go with a KH just for the wall thickness and it not being aluminium.
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Old 2011-05-17, 07:47 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mowcius View Post
It's aluminium so won't rust, I think it's lighter than the devel (although the longneck aspect might make it heavier) and it's thicker wall so can't get dented anywhere near so easily, bearing holders are also machined rather than stamped, crown is flat (but so are some of the other koxx frames) and it's a KH...

I'd go with a KH just for the wall thickness and it not being aluminium.
Robin, I noticed a significant weight drop by changing to my longneck kh from my devil
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Old 2011-05-18, 04:30 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mowcius View Post
It's aluminium so won't rust, I think it's lighter than the devel (although the longneck aspect might make it heavier) and it's thicker wall so can't get dented anywhere near so easily, bearing holders are also machined rather than stamped, crown is flat (but so are some of the other koxx frames) and it's a KH...

I'd go with a KH just for the wall thickness and it not being aluminium.
That's kind of confusing and that last statement is backwards.

KH = aluminum
K1 devil = steel

Aluminum aloy doesn't often dent. I've never seen a KH frame get dents anywhere. The problem w/ older frames seems to only be where the neck meets the crown w/ it cracking and then the neck breaking off. Same w/ the older Torker DX frames.
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Old 2011-05-18, 07:58 AM   #25
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And it being aluminium...

Yeah seems to be people breaking the crown now rather than the seatpost.

Ryan, I'll have to weigh them up some time.
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Old 2011-05-18, 01:29 PM   #26
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one plus to the steel frame is its easy to fix
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Old 2011-05-18, 01:30 PM   #27
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Not sure it's any easier than a KH as although it's steel (which more people can weld than aluminium), the thin tube walls would make it difficult to fix.
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Old 2011-05-18, 01:35 PM   #28
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thats true but if need be ya can
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