KH 09 rim.

unicycler100 · 2010-07-02, 02:27 AM

Hea I've been getting a few punchers lately and I was looking at my rim and at the join there a 0.2mm gap on both side I dont think this is the problem, because the tyre goes between the rim and tube....

what can I do to minimize the gap getting bigger? also should I be concerned about the gap?

Does any body else have this??? Its happened to 2 rims now...

DSchmitt · 2010-07-02, 02:49 AM

that happened to mine, but it was an 07, and it was very outta true also. is yours still true?

when you put your cranks on, make sure you dont put them on so that the spot you're dropping on is where the rim seam is. like i prefer my rim seam at 3oclock or 9 oclock or so...it can be like 4/10..as long as your rim seam wont be on the bottom with your cranks horizontal.. i avoid putting it at 12 also because sometimes i'll land in my non natural crank position..putting the seam right on the dropping spot..

jtrops · 2010-07-02, 03:55 AM

I would check the wheel tension. If it is properly tensioned it should keep the gap from getting bigger. I don't know if there is much to this, but in the old days there was a theory that the lacing should be such that the spokes will pull the seam together. In order for this to happen you would want the seam to be in the middle of a spoke group (2 pairs of crossing spokes one on each side of the wheel). You can check to see if your wheel is built that way, but like I said I don't know how much that matters.

.2mm is very small, I have seen much larger gaps (1-1.5mm) on old Rigida road bike rims, and they were fine.

unicycler100 · 2010-07-02, 08:46 PM

sweet thanks, I'll make sure the seam is not on the dropping zone.

As for the spoke tension etc etc I know its a 3 cross and that I built the wheel.

its all tensioned and true so hopefuly it stays how it is and doesn't get bigger

jtrops · 2010-07-02, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by unicycler100

sweet thanks, I'll make sure the seam is not on the dropping zone.

As for the spoke tension etc etc I know its a 3 cross and that I built the wheel.

its all tensioned and true so hopefuly it stays how it is and doesn't get bigger

I guess that might help too, but what was refering to is where the seam sits related to the spokes. When you build a wheel you want the valve stem between spoke groups so that you have better access to the valve for inflation. You want the seam in the middle of a spoke group to effectively pull the seam together.

saskatchewanian · 2010-07-03, 02:35 AM

a small gap at the join on a pinned rim is nothing to worry about. It is best not to have it where you usually drop though.

2010-07-02, 02:27 AM	#1
unicycler100 Names Jesse :P Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Palmerston North NZ Age: 20 Posts: 996	KH 09 rim. Hea I've been getting a few punchers lately and I was looking at my rim and at the join there a 0.2mm gap on both side I dont think this is the problem, because the tyre goes between the rim and tube.... what can I do to minimize the gap getting bigger? also should I be concerned about the gap? Does any body else have this??? Its happened to 2 rims now... __________________ You know your not succeding when you know your not achiving anything

2010-07-02, 02:49 AM	#2
DSchmitt Human Gyroscope Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Saint Augustine Age: 25 Posts: 1,962	that happened to mine, but it was an 07, and it was very outta true also. is yours still true? when you put your cranks on, make sure you dont put them on so that the spot you're dropping on is where the rim seam is. like i prefer my rim seam at 3oclock or 9 oclock or so...it can be like 4/10..as long as your rim seam wont be on the bottom with your cranks horizontal.. i avoid putting it at 12 also because sometimes i'll land in my non natural crank position..putting the seam right on the dropping spot.. __________________ Best of Me 18:21 Stillstand 255 foot railride Last edited by DSchmitt; 2010-07-02 at 02:50 AM.

2010-07-02, 03:55 AM	#3
jtrops Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Longmont, Colorado Age: 45 Posts: 1,286	I would check the wheel tension. If it is properly tensioned it should keep the gap from getting bigger. I don't know if there is much to this, but in the old days there was a theory that the lacing should be such that the spokes will pull the seam together. In order for this to happen you would want the seam to be in the middle of a spoke group (2 pairs of crossing spokes one on each side of the wheel). You can check to see if your wheel is built that way, but like I said I don't know how much that matters. .2mm is very small, I have seen much larger gaps (1-1.5mm) on old Rigida road bike rims, and they were fine. __________________ "A properly ridden unicycle is like an object in orbit: constantly falling but never landing." -Diogenes

2010-07-02, 08:46 PM	#4
unicycler100 Names Jesse :P Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Palmerston North NZ Age: 20 Posts: 996	sweet thanks, I'll make sure the seam is not on the dropping zone. As for the spoke tension etc etc I know its a 3 cross and that I built the wheel. its all tensioned and true so hopefuly it stays how it is and doesn't get bigger __________________ You know your not succeding when you know your not achiving anything

2010-07-03, 02:35 AM	#6
saskatchewanian ERIC P Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Denare Beach, Saskatchewan, Canada Age: 27 Posts: 5,244	a small gap at the join on a pinned rim is nothing to worry about. It is best not to have it where you usually drop though. __________________ My friends, love is better than anger. Hope is better than fear. Optimism is better than despair. So let us be loving, hopeful and optimistic. And we’ll change the world. - Jack Layton

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