Nimbus Muni 26" with Hookworm as a learner?

[Igor]

Hi,

Is it a good idea to get a Nimbus 26" Muni, replace the knobby tire with a Hookworm and use it for learning? This is meant as a step up from the 20" Torker LX I have now. If I go ahead with this, what crank length do I need? Is it easer to learn freemounting and other basic stuff with longer cranks?

Long term I am planning to ride on pavement first and progress toward muni once I am more comfortable with the idea. I like the idea of a bigger wheel on pavement, 20" is kind of slow.

I am at a stage when it feels like if I only got the right gear my progress would be so much faster.

Thanks,
Igor

[Tirving]

That sounds like a good plan. I would recommend getting 150mm cranks. It's pretty much the "default" Muni crank size and you'll have plentyof leverage (control) while also having a set-up where all you have to do is swap out the tire and hit the trails once your comfortable enough to do so.

Make sure you have some good shin guards, gloves, a shoes

[DSchmitt]

yeah just get a hookworm..if you're gonna be riding on pavement mostly, it will kill the stubs on the tire really quick. when riding my nimbus 26, i try to just avoid pavement.

[kb1jki]

I learned on a 24" with a 2.5" hookworm, marvelous tire! I just swapped 165mm moment cranks for 150/125 and found that I stall out less and can idle better with the 150s on my 26" muni.

[Igor]

Does this mean I should go with 165's on the 26"? This would be the same gear ratio as 150 on 24"

[kb1jki]

Not necessarily, I expected that I would like the longer cranks because I was used to them on the mountain bike...

I broke the 24 uni and got a 26er. Then I replaced my 165's with 150s on the 26er... I'm riding 150's on the 29er and my 36er! (I have dual holes and swap in between 150/125 on the 36er.) I think I just like spinning the smaller cranks.

I also ride the 29er and 36er differently than the muni and I don't need the leverage there. I guess I'm a 150 guy and prefer the way they feel despite the differences in torque between them. Maybe it's more about the preferred speed and cadence for each one that leads me to the similar sized cranks. I don't get it myself.

The longer cranks seem to have dead spots at the top and bottom of each crank stroke and I tend to stall out more with them, so I can't idle as well. I figure that for Muni when I really need leverage, I should probably be hopping up it anyway! and I haven't run out of leg so far... I also use brakes so the short cranks don't piss off the knees on the downhills. I don't usually need the brakes on the muni with 150s though. while brakes are huge on long, steep down hills with the 36er at speed in the 125's!